Sewing machine



March 16, 1948. c, SEAMAN I 2,437,978

SEWING MACHINE File d Feb. 20, 1945 '7 Sheets-Sheet l I IN V EN TOR. 014 945: SEAMAN ATTORNEY March 16, 1948. c. SEAMAN SEWING MACHINE Filed Feb. 20, 1945 7 Sheets-Sheet 2 WNN IN VEN TOR. Cf/Afil. E5 SEA/144M ATTOKA/E'K March 16, 1948. Q S A 2,437,978

SEWING MACHINE Filed Feb. 20, 1945 v 7 Sheets-Sheet 3 IN VEN TOR. CHARLES SEA/WA N 16, 1948. c. SEAMAN 2,437,978

SEWING MACHINE Filed Feb. 20, 1945 k 7 Sheets-Sheet 4 INVENTOR. CHARA 55 SEA MAN ATTORNEY March 16, 1948. c. SEAMAN SEWING MACHINE 7 Sheets-Sheet 6 Filed Feb. 20, 1945 INVENTOR. CHARL 55 5 A M/M/ A TTORNEX March 16, 1948. c. SEAMAN 2,437,978

' SEWING MACHINE Filed Feb. 20, 1945 7 Sheets-Sheet 7 NEEDL E 779E540 N550; s THAEAo L 8068/ 774K540 l #5504 5 fimena IN VEN TOR. CHARL 5.5 55

Patented Mar. 16, W48

ATENT FFIQE 13 Claims. 1

This invention relates to piping, and more particularly to a new and novel apparatus for making the same.

In United States Patents Nos. 1,742,830, 1,756,- 036 and 1,969,956, there is disclosed a piping which comprises a binding folded longitudinally throughout its length with the edges thereof turned inwardly to form edge folds, The bottom edge fold has two plies, and the top edge fold may have two, three, four or more plies. The plies or the top edge fold intermediate the top and bottom plies may be formed of materialintegral with the binding material constituting the piping or by a separate filler material. When the piping is attached to a base material, the latter is positioned intermediate the two adjacent juxtaposed plies of the top and bottom edge folds, and the materials are stitched together by a stitching which is not visible from the top of the piping and is visible only from the rear or back of the piping. The stitches pass. through the under side of the lowermost ply of the top fold, through the base material (when present), and through both plies of the bottom fold without passing through the top pl of the top fold. The stitches may pass through one or more of the plies intermediate the top and bottom plies of the top edge fold. In general, the stitching also does not pass through the inner ply which is next adjacen the top ply of the top edge fold, whereby a puifed effect is imparted to the piping.

The aforementioned piping is made by passing a binding material through a folder in which it is first formed into an inverted U, then into a W, and finally into a U with the edges of the legs turned inwardly to provide edge folds. When the upper portion of the piping is to be provided with more than two plies, a separate filler is fed adjacent the longitudinal edge of the binding material which is to constitute the top fold, or such longitudinal edge of the binding material is pro-folded, i. e. turned inwardly. After the binder leaves the folder, it i bent over a presser foot and caused to pass beneath the presser foot which cooperates with feed dogs to feed the materiul through the machine. The presser foot is disposed in position to guide the top edge fold beneath and ii, 2e path of travel of a vertically reciprocating needle, so that the needle enters and emerges from the under side of the lowermost ply of the fold and thereafter passes through both plies of the other edge fold to secure the two edge together. Depending on the position of the presser foot, the needle in its penetrating thrust may enter the under side of the lowermost ply of the top edge fold and pass through one or more of the plies of the top edge fold without passing through the two uppermost plies of said top edge fold. When the piping is formed and attached to a base materialby a single stitching operation, the base material is fed at the bend of the binding between the two, opposed plies of the top and bottom edge folds. The needle will pass through the base material after it emerges from the lower side of the lowermost ply of the top edge fold immediately prior to its passage through the plies of the desired for use on high quality merchandise to the same extent as it is used on mechandise of cheaper quality.

An object of this invention is to-provide a new and novel apparatus for producing blind-stitched pipin A further object of this invention is to provide an apparatus for making a blind-stitched piping which has the appearance of being made by hand Other and additional objects will appear hereinafter.

The above objects are accomplished, in general, by feeding a binding folded into U-shape with the edges folded inwardly to a retractable nipper shoe about which the folded binding is bent and caused to pass beneath the presser foot which cooperates with the feed dogs to feed the material through the machine, the direction of travel of the binding beneath the nipper shoe and presser foot being substantially at right angles to the direction of feed of the folded binder to the nipper shoe. For reasons which will become apparent, the top edge fold of the folded binding extends beyond the lower edge fold. The nipper shoe is adapted, when in its forward position, to position the folded piping and particularly the bend thereof in the path of a normally vertically reciprocating needle so that the needle in its penetrating thrust will enter and emerge from the same under side of the lowermost ply of the top edge fold and pass through a base material which has been positioned between the juxtaneedle, whereby the top edge fold is Positioned out of the path of the needle, and the needle in its penetrating thrust will pass through the base fabric only without passing through any of the plies of either of the edge folds. The needle thread of such a stitch lies on the top surface of the base fabric and in the final product, due to the top edge fold, is not visible. Such a stitch is also in alignment with the blind stitch which secures the top edge fold to the base fabric.

After the needle has made a predetermined number of such stitches in the base material and while the nipper shoe is still in its retracted position, the needle is engaged below the shank thereof and, due to its resiliency, inclined to its normal path perpendicular to the work, whereby the needle will penetrate the base fabric and the ply or plies of the bottom edge fold without passing through any of the plies of the top edge fold. Before the needle presents the thread to the looper, the needle assumes its normal position perpendicular to the work so that the hook of the machine will cooperate with the thread loop made thereby. The shifting of the needle so that it will penetrate the plies of the lower edge fold and its subsequent penetration through the under side of the lowermost ply of the top edge fold produces a cross-stitch which is substantially V-shaped and serves to secure the bottom edge fold of the piping to the base fabric. The nipper shoe is then moved to its forward position. The sequence of steps hereinbefore described is repeated.

The apparatus for producing the piping comprises an attachment which can be quickly secured to any standard sewing machine head without mutilating the machine and whereby, when the attachment is not desired to be used, it can be easily removed and the machine will be restored to its original condition. The attachment comprises a folder which is designed to fold a binding into substantial U-shape with the edges turned inwardly to form edge folds, the top edge fold extending slightly beyond the edge of the bottom edge fold. The folder is positioned in the machine so that the folded binder, as it issues from the throat thereof, will be bent over a nipper shoe and passed beneath a presser foot which cooperates with the feed dogs of the machine to feed the binding through the machine in a direction substantially at right angles to the path of travel of the binding through the folder. The nipper shoe is adapted to dispose the edge fold (which is to constitute the top fold of the piping) in proper position so that the needle,

. reciprocating in a vertical path, will enter the under side of the lowermost ply and emerge from the same under side and pass through the base fabric, when present, without passing through the top ply (and the inner ply adjacent thereto, if present) of the top fold and without passing through any of the plies of the bottom edge fold.

Means are provided to retract the nipper shoe, relative to the needle at predetermined times, to position the edge fold engaged thereby, and particularly the bend thereof, out of the path of the needle so that the needle, in its normal path of travel vertical to the work, will not penetrate or pass through any of the plies of the edge folds but, however, if a base fabric has been positioned between the juxtaposed plies of the top and bottom edge plies, the needle will pass therethrough only.

At predetermined intervals, the needle is inclined from its normal vertical path of travel, by appropriate means, so that it will pass through the base fabric, if present, and the plies of the bottom edge fold. The means shifting the needle to the inclined position becomes ineffective before the needle in its penetrating thrust presents the thread to the looper, whereby the needle assumes its normal vertical position and continues in a vertical path so that the hook of the machine will cooperate with the loop formed thereby. Afterstitching the bottom edge fold with a substantially V-shaped cross-stitch, the nipper shoe is moved to its forward position, permitting the needle to enter and emerge from the under side of the lowermost ply of the top edge fold, as previously described. In the preferred embodiment, the nipper shoe is made integral with the presser foot. The means for shifting the needle and the means for shifting the nipper shoe are operated in timed relationship.

The invention will be more clearly understood by reference to the following detailed description when taken in connection with the accompanying drawings in which an illustrative embodiment of the invention is shown and wherein:

Figure 1 is a perspective view of a sewing machine head having the attachment in position;

Figure 2 is a top plan view of the machine shown in Figure 1, with the head thereof broken away;

Figure 3. is a section taken on the line 3-3 of Figure 2;

Figure 4 is an end view of the machine shown in Figure 2 and looking to the left thereof;

Figure 5 is an end view of the machine looking to the right thereof;

Figure 6 is a top plan view, with the head of the machine omitted for the purpose of showing the other parts more clearly;

Figure 7 is a top plan view of the presser foot, including the nipper shoe, and showing the manner in which it is mounted;

Figure 8 is a front elevation of the presser foot and mounting shown in Figure 7;

Figure 9 is a top plan view showing the folder and the manner in which it is mounted;

Figure 10 is a top plan view of the guide over which the base material to which the piping is to be attached is fed;

Figure 11 is a front elevation of the mechanism for shifting the needle;

Figure 12 is an end view looking to the left in Figure 11;

Figure 13 is a, front elevation, partly in section,

of the mechanism for actuating the needle-shift- Figure 1-7 is a top plan view'of the details shown in Figure 16 Figure 18 is an enlarged fragmental view showing the position of the nipper shoe and, in crosssection, the position of the folds when the needie is inclined at the beginning of the production of the cross-stitch;

Figure 19 is a top plan view of the details shown in Figure 18;

Figure 20 is a rear plan view of one embodiment of the finishedpiping attached to a base fabric;

Figure 21 is a section taken on the line 2i-2i of Figure 20;

Figure 22 is a section taken on th line 22--22 of Figure 21;

Figure 23is a section taken on th line 2323 of Figure 20 Figure 24 is a section taken on the line 24-24 of Figure 23;

Figure 25 is a rear view of a finished piping per se;

Figure 26 is a section taken on the line 26-26 of Figure 25; and

Figure 27 is a section taken on the line 2'i--2'l of Figure 25.

Referring now to the drawings wherein like reference numerals designate like parts, the reference numeral I (Figures 1, 2, and 6) designates the base of a sewing machine head of any standard type carrying a standard and overhanging arm 2 provided at one end with a needle head 3, in which reciprocates a needle bar 4 carrying a needle 5. 'The vertically reciprocating needle .bar '4 may derive its power from any suitable'source, as, for'example, a pulley 6 (see Figure 2), driven by a belt (not shown). Slidably mountedv in the head 3 is a presser foot bar 8 carrying a screw ['0 and adapted to be drawn upwardly by means of an operating lever l2. On the rear face of the overhanging arm 2, there is provided a stud 14 (see Figure 2) on which a lever It is mounted intermediate its ends. Though not shown in the drawings, one end of the lever I6 is secured to the presser foot bar 8 and the other end of the lever i6 is connected to one end of a lever, the other end of which terminates beneath the base I and is adapted to be engaged by the knee of the operator to elevate the presser foot bar 3. The machine is provided with feed dogs '18 which are carried upon a four-motion feed dog-operating lever 22 (see Figure 5). One end of the feed dogoperating lever 22 is pivoted at 25 on one end of'a link 26, and the other end of the link 28 is mounted on a rock shaft 28. The opposite end of the feed dog-operating lever 22 is provided with a slot 39. A pin 32 "is positioned .in the slot St and is mounted eccentrically of arock shaft (not shown). The feed dog-operating mechanism just described is a standard fourmotion feed dog-actuating mechanism. The ma-- chine is also provided with a hook 36 and a bobbin case 38 in which a bobbin 40 is secured in the usual manner. The machine is also provided with a throat plate 52 and a sliding cover plate 44.

The-details of construction of the sewing machine head and the appurtenant mechanisms thus far described are those found in any standard sewing machine, such as a 95-10 Singer sewing machine.

The standard presser foot employed in stand ard sewing machines is removed and, in place thereof, there is provided a presser foot of a special construction and mounted in the machine as will now be described. A flat spring 50 (see Figures 1, 3 and 5) is secured at the upper end thereof to a bracket 52, which bracket will be more fully explained hereinafter. At its lower end-the springiii is secured by means of screws 5% to'achanneled block 56 (see Figures 3 and 5). A lever 58 (see Figure 7) is positioned in the channel of the block 55 and pivotally mounted on a-screw 613. For reasons which will become apparent, the lever 58 is, adjacent one end thereof, mounted on an eccentric 52 in the block 56. 8n the otherend of the lever 58, a spring 52 is attached by'means of screws 66. The outer end of the spring 5 is secured by screws 68 to a presser foot, generally indicated by the reference numeral '10, and a flange 12 of a lifting ear M which is adapted to cooperate with the screw Hi on the presser foot bar. As shown in Figures 1 and 7,'the lifting ear "ii is provided at the top thereof with a horizontally extending flange it provided with a curved surface it of substantially the same radius as the presser root bar 8 and is adapted to embrace said presser foot bar 8.

The presser foot, generally designated by the reference numeral '10, is provided with a rounded toe is and a lateral extension 89 which constitute a nipper shoe. By virtue of slots 82 in the spring the spring 3, and hence the presser foot id, may be generally adjusted forward and away from the needle 5. The screws so will secure the spring 5% in adjusted position. For fine adjustment of the presser foot 'lil relative to the needie 5, the eccentric 52 is turned in the proper direction.

On the rear surface of the spring 55., there is provided a boss ti l in which one end of a link 3'5 is secured. In the form shown in Figures 6 and '7, the boss 32- is secured to the spring 5i and the link 85 is secured in the boss 84 by means of the screws 132. The other end of the link 8% is secured to a crank 93 (Figures 1 and 3) The crank 92 is secured on a rock shaft s2 carried in a bearing 94 on an arm 93 of the bracket 52. Thus, upon actuation of the rock shaft t2, the link 86 will he reciprocated back and forth, which reciprocating movement wili be imparted to the spring 52 with the result that the presser foot it will be reciprocated at predetermined times back and forth relative to the needle 5. The mechanism for actuating the rock shaft d2 will now be described.

The bracket 52 is provided with a hole 98 (see Figure 1) whereby it is positioned on the stud ii and secured in place by a nut iiiii (see Figures 2 and 3). The bracket 52 is also supported on the head of the machine by a support i6 3 (see Figure 5) As shown in Figure 1, the bracket 52 at the lower end thereof is provided with a horizontal bearing M52 through which a shaft Iii) extends. The shaft is positioned above the work support 5 and at the rear thereof. On one end of the shaft 5 it, there is secured an eccentric i 52 carrying an arm iii (see Figures 1, 3 and 6). The arm ti t carries at the end thereof a threaded pin H2 which extends in a slot MB of a lever one end of which is secured by a set screw 522 on the rock shaft 22 (see Figures 1 and 3). A wing nut 12% secures the eccen'tricaily mounted aim H 3 in adjusted position in the lever 52%.

The shaft H3 is carried, as shown in Figures 1 and 4, in a boss I30 of a bracket #32 which is attached to the sewing machine head by means of a bolt 13d. The shaft iiii carries a pulley I36 engaging a belt I38 which is driven by a pulley I40 attached to the drive shaft of the machine adjacent the driving pulley 6 thereof. A housing I 4| is appropriately mounted to surround the pulleys I36 and I40 and the belt I38.

From the foregoing description, it is apparent that during operation of the machine the link 86 will be reciprocated back and forth. When the spring 50 is actuated so that it will move away from the operator, the block 56 carrying the lever 58 will also be moved in a direction away from the operator, and hence the presser foot will be moved away from the needle 5 and the nipper shoe 80 will be retracted. When the spring is actuated so that it will move in a direction toward the operator, the block 56, and hence the presser foot, will be moved toward the needle 5 and the nipper shoe will be in its forward opcrating position.

In order to fold the binding, there is provided a folder, generally designated by the reference numeral I50. This folder i of such a construction that it will fold the binding fed therethrough first into an inverted U, then into a W, and finally into a U with the edges of the legs turned inwardly to provide edge folds, with the outer edge of the top edge fold extending beyond the outer edge of the lower edge fold. It is to be noted that the folder I50 (see Figures 1, 3 and 9) is provided with a curved edge I52 which slopes oppositely downward toward and below the top of the end plates I54 and I56, thereby tending to cause the folds of the binding as they pass downwardly through the throat I58 to slide along the edge I52 toward the end plates I54 and I56, which act as limiting abutments to hold the extreme edges of the folded binding in proper feeding position. A suitable construction of such a folder is shown in United States Patents Nos. 1,142,830, 1,756,036 and 1,969,950. Due to the difference in size of the edge folds, the end pieces I54 and I50 are offset, the end piece I54 which is to cooperate with the top edge fold extending beyond the end piece I56. In position in the machine, the end piece I 54 overlaps the nipper shoe S0 and is spaced slightly therefrom so that the reciprocation of the nipper shoe will not affect it (see Figures 1, 6, 14-19 inclusive). Since the precise details of construction of the folding mechanisms of the folder I50 per se form no part of this invention, further description thereof is not deemed necessary.

As shown in Figure 9, the folder I!) is carried on one end of a fiat spring I60, the other end of said spring I00 being pivotally secured at I62 to an extension I64 of a slide I66 slidably mounted in a channel of a block I61 carried by a plate I60, which is secured onto the base of the machine by means of screws in the countersunk holes I10. A screw I12 cooperates with a slot I16 in the slide I65 for reasons which will hereafter appear.

The adjustment means comprises a lever I18 having an extension I19 extending downwardly through the end of the slide I66 and pivoted to the block I61 and provided with an eccentric I80 engaging in the end of the slide I66 so that, by swinging the lever I18 in one direction orthe other, the eccentric will correspondingly swing the slide I66 to move the folder. Obviously, suflicient clearance may be provided either at the screw I12 or at the eccentric I80 to permit the necessary reciprocation of the slide I65 to take place as the eccentric I80 is rotated. The lever I18 has substantial friction provided by any suitable means, such as by having the pivot screw 8 I12 fairly tight, so that it readily remains where it is placed to maintain the folder in position. A set screw Hi2 secures the slide I66 in adjusted position.

The folder I50 is yieldingly held in position by means of a spring I82 coiled about a securing screw I84. One end I88 of spring I82 is bent to engage the edge I89 of the spring I60, and the other end I90 is bent into position adjacent the edge I9I of the extension I60. A stop 200, adjustably carried by a post 202 on the support I00, limits the lateral movement of the folder I50 by the spring I82. A set screw 204 secures the stop 200 -in adjusted position. It is to be noted (see Figures 14 and 15) that the folder, and particularly the end plates I 54 and I56, is inclined with respect to the base of the machine.

In the embodiment of the invention wherein the top edge fold is provided with three or four plies, the binding material is folded inwardly at the longitudinal edge of the material which is to constitute the top edge fold prior to passage through the folder I50. As is obvious, the ex tent of the infold determines the number of plies to be provided intermediate the top and bottom plies of the top edge fold. To produce this result, a folder 210 is disposed so that the delivery end thereof is positioned adjacent the receiving end of the folder I50 (see Figure 6). The folder 2H3 is secured in any appropriate manner to one end of a supporting rod 2I2 which is adjustably mounted in a block 2%. A screw 2I6 secures the supporting rod 212 in adjusted position.

It is apparent that upon actuation of the lever I18, the slide I66 will be moved about the pivot I12 whereby the folders, and particularly the end'pieces I50 and I55 of the folder I50, will be finely adjusted relative to the needle.

The adjusting lever I18 extends to the front of the machine and is provided at the free end thereof with a pointer 220 which cooperates with a scale 222 on a plate 220. The shape of the adjusting lever I13 is such that relatively large movements thereof are translated into relatively small movements to the slide and thereby permits the fine adjustment. The plate 224 is a part of the plate 226 which is secured in position on the base of the machine by means of a screw (not shown) passing through the hole 228.

As previously mentioned, the needle 5 is shifted laterally at predetermined times to produce a cross-stitch. The mechanism for shifting the needle will now be explained. As shown in Figures 1, 11 and 12, a needle pusher finger 240 is adjustably secured in a horizontal arm 242 of a support by means of a set screw 244. The pusher finger 240 is L-shaped, and the free end thereof, which is adapted to engage and shift the needle 5 as will be hereafter explained, is provided with a cam surface 206. In order that the cam surface 206 effectively engage the needle 5, it is preferably roughened or corrugated. The

horizontal arm 242 is made integral with a vertical arm 250 which is provided with a boss 25I at the top thereof and adjustably mounted on a post 252. A set screw 250 secures the arm 250 in proper position on the post 252. The post 252 is secured at one end of a spring 256, the other end of the spring 250 being secured by screws 258 to the arm 96 of the bracket 52.

The shape of the bracket suspended from the spring 256 as formed by the arms 242 and 250 is such that the free end 206 of the pusher finger 240 will be normally positioned to the left of and in spaced relationship with the needle (as shown answers in Figure 1) so that upon movement of the support the cam end 246 will move to engage the needle and push it toward the right, whereby the needle 5 will be inclined until the end 246' moves out of contact therewith and permits theneedle to assume its normal vertical position.

The arm 2 2 is provided with a pin 262 which is adapted to be engaged at predetermined periods of time by a finger 25%, whereby the desired movement of the needle pusher finger 246 is efiected. The finger 2% (see Figures 1 and 13) is curved and the horizontal portion thereof is mounted in a housing 2?!) carried on the rock lever 99. The finger 265 is provided with an enlargement 212 which is slidably mounted in the housing 278. Extending from the enlargement 2'32 is a threaded stem 214 which cooperates with a nut 256 where by the pusher finger 266 may be adjusted so that it can engage the pin 262 at the desired predetermined intervals. A spring 273 coiled around the stem 2%, and engaging the end of the enlargement 272 and the shoulder 21!, helps to main tain the pusher finger 2% in proper position. The finger 266 is provided with a cam surface where it engages the pin 252. It is apparent from the foregoing that during operation of the machine the finger 256 will, at predetermined times as the lever 90 is rocked away from the operator (to the left in Fig. 5), engage the pin 252 at the left thereof and cam the spring-suspended bracket carrying the needle pusher finger 2 30 to the right as seen in Fig. 2, whereby the latter will engage the needle during at least a part of its downward stroke. Due to the resiliency and flexibility of the needle below the shank thereof, such portion of the needle will be shifted (bent) to the right and caused to assume an inclined position, whereby it will be in position to penetrate the plies of the bottom edge fold without passing through any of the plies of the top edge fold. As the needle descends and before it presents the thread to the looper, the needle-shifting means is retracted and the needle assumes its'normal vertical position. When the pin 262 is released from engagement with the pusher finger 266; the spring 253 will restore the bracket, and hence the pusher finger 2420, to its original position.

The apparatus hereinbefore described will produce a piping, one embodiment of which is shown in Figures 25 and 26 of the drawings. It is to be noted that such piping is not stitched to a base fabric. In use, such a piping is attached to a base fabric by a separate stitching operation. When, however, it is desired to form and secure the piping to a base fabric by a single stitching operation, the base fabric is fed so that the longitudinal edge thereof will be positioned intermediate the juxtaposed plies of the top and bottom edge folds at the bend thereof, as hereafter more fullyexplained.

For the purpose of facilitating the feeding of the base fabric, there is provided a guide 280 (see Figures 6 and which is mounted on an arm 232 which is slidably mounted on a lever 28-4, which is pivoted on a screw 285 carried in an ear of a plate 233. The arm 282 is provided with a slot 290 and, by means of the screw 292 cooperating therewith, can be adjusted and secured in desired position on the lever 284. The plate 288 is also provided with a slot 2% whereby it may be adjusted relative to the plate 225. A set screw 29% positioned in the slot 294 and cooperating with a threaded hole (not shown) in the plate 288 secures the plate 238 in adjusted position. The plate 283 is also provided with a dowel 298' 10 whiolfis adapted to cooperate with an on hole (notshown) in the base of the machine.

In operation; a binding material is" fed from a'suitable source of supply through'a tensioni'ng uests-which is carried by the pre-iolder 210. From theftensioninggate' 3%; the binding material is fed through the pre-iolder 2m whereby the longitudinal edge which is to forni'p'art' oftiie top edge fold'is turned over and inwardlyofthe binding material. Fromt he folder 2 l 8, the folded material is fed through the folder I50 where the binding is foldedfirst into-an inverted U; then into a-w; and'then into a u with'the legs thereof inturned.

When the bindingleaves the folding'lnech'anisms of the folder lfifl'and passesover the edge L52, it will be notdthat the edge fold 310 which is reconstitute the to ofthe piping comprises four'plies 320, 322, 324' and 326, and theedge fold 3i ZWhich is to constitute the bottom 'Of thepiplh'g comprises two plies 328 and 338. As shown" in Figures 21 and 23, the top edge fold :i i i3 is slightly larger than'andextends beyond the edge of the bottom edge fold 3|2; As shown in'Figures'l5l 17 and 19, the end plates i513 and I56 act as limiting abutmentstohold the'extrenie ed'ges'o'i the respective edge folds 3l2 andslfi in proper feed ing position. As the folded binding passes'fi'oin the throat, it is bent at right angles to its previ ous' direction of travel about the nipperslioefiil and passed beneath'the pi'esser'foot'iil. As'shown in Figures 14, 1e and" 18, a base fabric'332 isfed and positionedintermediate the plies 32fi'aiid328. As shownln Figures leand 15, at the beginning of'the operationwith the" lever 9t rockecrtowaro the operatorth'enippershoe89 will engage and position the bend or'tneedge fold 3m, andpafticularly that portion extending beyond the outer edge of the bottom'edge fold, in the path of the needle, which'is at this time reciprocating in a vertical path, so thatthe needle Senters and leaves the top fold 3" from the under sided-f the 17157320. The needle, after emerging front the ply 320, will then pass through the base'fabriC 332, which has been fed into the inachilie'as previously described. It is to be notedtliat iii thisstitchin'g'by the needle 5, the needle does not pass ci enetrate thr'oilgiith'e plies szi'aiid 324 of the top fold 3m and that, due to the fact that the inner edge of the'top edge fold extends beyond the inner edge; of the bottom edge fold, it also does not ass through the plies Billand 330 ofthe plies of the bottom edge fold'tiz"; or any part thereof. Thus, the stitch etc secures thetop' edge fold-3l0to the base fabric 332 and is blind, i. e. invisible from the top or the finished piping. Prior to the next penetration of the needle 5, the nipper shoe lid is retracted by the'rock lev'e'ngfl" and, as shown in Figures 16 and 17, both the top andbottom edge folds 3H? and 3' f 2 are shifted out of the path oitravelof then'eedi'e whereby only the base fabric 332i's stitched with straight stitches 3 ml Aitrmaking a predetermined number of such straight stitches tiiland'while the nipper shoe is still in its retracted position, the pusher finger 256 is actuated by further rockingofthe lever 9'0 to the left (Fig. 5) to engage the pin 2B2 whereby the supportis' raised so that the pusher fiiiger' cam 24!; engages'thdfiedl below the shank' thereof and shifts the needle toanin'clined position (toward the driving'end of the machine), suchas diagrammatically shown in Figure 18''. The shift lng'orbending of the ne'edle'5 'is such 'thatit clears the top edge fold andisin position to pass through the base fabric 332 and both plies 328 and330 of the bottom edge fold 3l2 without passing through any of the plies of the top edge fold 3H]. The pusher finger 240 is maintained (by the proper cooperation of the pusher finger 26B and the pin 262) in contact with the needle until the needle, in its descending stroke, has penetrated through the base fabric 332 and before it has presented the needle thread in position for cooperation with the looper. At this time, the finger 26G'is retracted from the pin 262 whereby, due to the action of the spring 258, the support carrying the needle pusher finger 240 is restored to its original position and the needle pusher finger is removed from contact with the needle and the needle assumes its normal reciprocating path. The shifting and release of the needle forms (as shown in Figure 21) a V-shaped cross-stitch 315. Thereafter, the nipper shoe 80 is moved to its forward position and the stitching operation, as previously described, repeated. It is apparent that any desired number of straight stitches 310 may intervene between the blind stitch 358 and the cross-stitch 315 depending upon the ratio of the pulleys I36, I40. A ratio of 4:1 will produce the stitch shown in Figs. 20 to 24. As shown in Figs. 1 and 4, the pulleys have a 2:1 ratio which would produce alternate cross and straight stitches.

In the finished piping attached to a base material as just described, the ply 322 of the upper fold will impart a puffed efiect to the piping and no stitches will be visible from the top of the piping. As shown in Figures 21 and 23, the portions of straight stitches SIB-on the base fabric 332 are in very close proximity to the inner edge of the piping and concealed thereby. On the rear (see Figure 20), the cross-stitches 3'15 are visible and the straight stitches 310 are in close proximity to the inner edge of the piping. Frequently, the straight stitches 310 are not visible from the back of the piping when viewed at right angles. Depending on the nature of the material of which the binding is made, the inner lower edge of the piping may sometimes entirely conceal the straight stitches. It is to be noted that the top edge fold of the piping between the blind stitches is not secured and that the opposite bottom edge portion of the piping is not secured intermediate the cross-stitches.

Best results are obtained when thread of a color the same as the piping is used. When the thread constituting the stitches are under appropriate tension, the product will simulate a hand-made product. Due to the nature of the stitches, the latter will not break when tension is applied 1ongitudinally of the material and the piping is flexible and resilient.

When a piping per se (not attached to any base fabric) is desired, the base fabric 332 is omitted and only the binding fed through the machine, wherein the same sequence of operations previously described will take place. As shown in Figure 26, the piping is characterized by a crosssection which is substantially oval or elliptical. Since in the production of this piping the stitches 310' lying intermediate the blind stitch 315' and the cross-stitch 350 do not pass through any material, they will, as shown in the drawing, be present as floats, in which the needle and bobbin threads are twisted around each other.

When the top edge fold comprises four plies, the needle will in its penetrating thrust enter from the under side of the bottom ply thereof and may, if desired, pass through the intermediate ply ad- 12 jacent thereto and leave from said under side of the bottom ply without passing through the top ply or the intermediate ply adjacent thereto which gives the puffed effect.

By appropriate adjustment of the eccentric arm H4 in the slotted lever 120 or by the adjustment of the finger 268 in the housing 218, the throw of the pusher finger 266 may be adjusted to produce any size of cross-stitches. In the pipings shown in Figures 20-27 inclusive, the following sequence of steps were used:

(1) Nipper shoe in forward position whereby blind stitch is formed;

(2) Nipper shoe retracted whereby base fabric only is stitched;

(3) Nipper sh'oe retracted and needle shifted whereby base and lower edge fold are stitched;

4) Nipper shoe retracted whereby base fabric only is stitched.

Above steps repeated in sequence.

Obviously, the time intervals between the operations may be varied whereby any number of straight stitches may be formed between the blind and cross-stitches.

Though in the embodiment of the invention above described the piping is described as comprising four plies in the upper edge fold and two plies in the bottom edge fold, it is to be understood that the invention is not restricted to such precise piping. In general, the top edge fold comprises at least two plies and any number of plies may be positioned therebetween to constitute a filler. The filler may be an integral part of the binding material or may be separate. The bottom edge fold may consist of a single ply or of more than two plies as may be desired.

Th'ough in the preferred form, the nipper shoe is formed integral with the presser foot, the invention is not restricted thereto. The nipper shoemay be independent of the presser foot, in which case the presser foot need not be retactable and only the nipper shoe retractable.

Though the invention has been described in connection with a specific standard type of sewing machine (Singer -10) it is to be understood that the attachment can be used with any of the other standard type single-needle machines. For example, when used with a Wilcox-Gibbs single-needle machine, the bracket 52 will need to be modified so that it can be properly suspended from the head, but such modification will be readily apparent to one skilled in the art.

The invention provides a new and improved form of piping which, due to the mode of stitching, appears as if hand-made and, therefore, may be used on any quality merchandise. The attachment for producing the piping can be attached to the sewing machine head without mutilation thereof and may be removed when not desired.

No claims to the piping and method of preparing the same are presented herein, since such claims form the subject matter of my copending application Serial No, 578,850, filed on even date herewith. Also, no claims to the apparatus for and method of making the cross-stitch are pre sented herein, since such claims form the subject matter of my copending applications Serial Nos. 578,848 and 578,849, filed on even date herewith.

Since it is obvious that various changes and modifications may be made in the above description without departing from the nature or spirit thereof, this invention is not restricted thereto except as set forth in the appended claims.

I claim:

1. A sewing machine comprising feed dogs, a normally vertically reciprocating needle, a folder to fold a binding longitudinally thereof with at least one f the edges turned inwardly to form a top edge fold having at least top and bottom plies, a presser foot under which the folded binding is passed for feeding by the feed dogs, means to position the bend of the edge fold in the path of travel of the needle whereby the needle will enter and emerge from the under surface of the bottom ply of said edge fold without passing through said top ply of said top edge fold and without passing through the opposite edge portion of the binding, means to position the folded binding out of the path of travel of the needle whereby the needle will not pass through any part of the folded binding, and means cooperating with said needle at predetermined times to form a cross-stitch passing through the opposite edge portion of the binding.

2. A sewing machine comprising feed dogs, a normally vertically reciprocating needle, a folder to fold a binding longitudinally thereof with at least one of the edges turned inwardly to form a top edge fold having at least top and bottom plies, a presser foot under which the folded binding is passed for feeding by the feed dogs, means to position the bend of the edge fold in the ath of travel of the needle whereby the needle will enter and emerge from the under surface of the bottom ply of said edge fold without passing through said top ply of said top edge fold and without passing through the oppositeedge portion of the binding, means to dispose said bendpositioning means to position the folded binding out of the path of travel of the needle whereby the needle will not pass through any part of the folded binding, and means cooperating with said needle at predetermined times to form a crossstitch passing through the opposite edge portion of the binding.

3. A sewing machine comprising feed dogs, a normally vertically reciprocating needle, a folder to fold a binding longitudinally thereof with at least one of the edges turned inwardly to form a top edge fold havin at least top and bottom plies, a presser foot under which the folded binding is passed for feeding by the feed dogs, a nipper shoe about which the folded binding is bent in its travel from said folder to the presser foot, means to dispose said nlpper shoe to position the bend the edge fold in the path of travel of the needle whereby the needle will enter and emerge from the under surface of the bottom ply of said edge fold without passing through said top ply of said top edge fold and without passing through the opposite edge portion of the binding, means to dispose said nipper shoe to position the folded binding out of the path of travel of the needle whereby the needle will not pass through any part of the folded binding, and means cooperating with said needle at predetermined times to form a cross-stitch passing through the opposite edge portion of the binding.

4. A sewing machine comprising feed dogs, a normally vertically reciprocating needle, a folder to fold a binding longitudinally thereof with at least one of the edges turned inwardly to form a top edge fold having at least top and bottom plies, a presser foot under which the folded binding is passed for feeding by the feed dogs, a nipper shoe about which the folded binding is bent in its travel from said folder to the presser foot,

14 movable means carrying said nipper shoe, means to move said movable means at predetermined times to dispose said nipper shoe to position the bend of the edge fold in the path of travel of the needle whereby the needle will enter and emerge from the under surface of the bottom ply of said edge fold without passing through said top ply of said top edge fold and Without passing through the opposite edge portion of the binding and retract said nipper shoe to position the folded binding out of the path of travel of the needle whereby the needle will not pass through any part of the folded binding, and means cooperating with said needle at predetermined times to form a cross-stitch passing through the opposite edge portion of the binding.

5. A sewing machine comprising feed dogs, a normally vertically reciprocating needle, a. folder to fold a binding longitudinally thereof with at least one of the edges turned inwardly to form a top edge fold having at least top and bottom plies, a presser foot under which the folded binding is passed for feeding by the feed dogs, a nipper shoe about which the folded binding is .bent in its travel from said folder to the presser foot, movable means carrying said nipper shoe, means actuated from the pulley end of the machine to move said movable means at predermined times to dispose said nipper shoe to position the bend of the edge fold in the path of travel of the needle whereby the needle :will enter and emerge from the under surface of the bottom ply of said edge fold without passing through said top ply of said top edge fold and without passing through the opposite edge portion of the binding and retract said nipper shoe to position the folded binding out of the path of travel of the needle whereby the needle will not pass through any part of the folded binding, and means cooperating with said needle at predetermined times to form a cross-stitch passing through the opposite edge portion of the binding.

6. A sewing machine comprising feed dogs, a normally vertically reciprocating needle, a folder to fold a binding longitudinally thereof with at least one of the edges turned inwardly to form a top edge fold having at least top and bottom plies, a presser foot under which the folded binding is passed for feeding by the feed dogs, a nipper shoe carried by said presser foot and about which the folded binding is bent prior to passing beneath the presser foot, means to dispose said presser foot so that the nipper shoe will position the bend of the edge fold in the path of travel of the needle whereby the needle will enter and emerge from the under surface of the bottom ply of said edge fold without passing through said top ply of said top edge fold and Without passing through the opposite edge portion of the binding, means to retract said presser foot at predetermined, times so that the nipper shoe will position the folded binding out of the path of travel of the needle whereby the needle will not pass through any part of the folded binding, and means cooperating with said needle at predetermined times to form a cross-stitch passing through the opposite edge portion of the bind 7. A sewing machine comprising feed dogs, a normally vertically reciprocating needle, a folder to fold a binding longitudinally thereof with at least one of the edges turned inwardly to form a top edge fold having at least top and bottom plies, a movable support, a presser foot carried by said support and under which the folded binding is passed for feeding by the feed dogs, a nipper shoe carried by said presser foot and about which the folded binding is bent prior to passing beneath the presser foot, means to dispose said movable support so that the nipper shoe will position the bend of the edge fold in the path of travel of the needle whereby the needle will enter and emerge from the under surface of the bottom ply of said edge fold without passing through said top ply of said top edge fold and without passing through the opposite edge portion of the binding, means to move said support in a direction to retract said nipper shoe at predetermined times so that the nipper shoe will position the folded binding out of the path of travel of the needle whereby the needle will not pass through any part of the folded binding, and means cooperating with said needle at predetermined times to form a cross-stitch passing through the opposite edge portion of the binding.

8. A sewing machine comprising a head, feed dogs, a normally vertically reciprocating needle, a folder to fold a binding longitudinally thereof With at least one of the edges turned inwardly to form a top edge fold having at least top and bottom plies, a bracket on said head, a support suspended from said bracket, a, presser foot carried by said support and under which the folded binding is passed for feeding by the feed dogs, a nipper shoe carried by said presser foot and about which the folded binding is bent prior to passing beneath the presser foot, means to dispose said support so that the nipper shoe will position the bend of the edge fold in the path of travel of the needle whereby the needle will enter and emerge from the under surface of the bottom ply of said edge fold without passing through said top ply of said top edge fold and without passing through the opposite edge portion of the binding, means to move said support in a direction to retract said nipper shoe at predetermined times so that the nipper shoe will position the folded binding out of the path of travel of the needle whereby the needle will not pass through any part of the folded binding, and means cooperating with said needle at predetermined times to form a cross-stitch passing through the opposite edge portion of the binding.

9. A sewing machine comprising a, head, feed dogs, a normally vertically reciprocating needle, a folder to fold a binding longitudinally thereof with at least one of the edges turned inwardly to form a top edge fold having at least top and bottom plies, a bracket on said head, a spring suspended from said bracket, a presser foot carried by said spring and under which the folded binding is passed for feeding by the feed dogs, a nipper shoe carried by said presser foot and about which the folded binding is bent prior to passing beneath the presser foot, means to dispose said spring so that the nipper shoe will position the bend of the edge fold in the path of travel of the needle whereby the needle will enter and emerge from the under surface of the bottom ply of said edge fold without passing through said top ply of said top edge fold and without passing through the opposite edge portion of the binding, means to move said spring in a direction to retract said nipper shoe at predetermined times so that the nipper shoe will position the folded binding out of the path of travel of the needle whereby the needle will not pass through any part of the folded binding, and means cooperating with said needle at predetermined times to 16 form a cross-stitch passing through the opposite edge portion of the binding.

10. A sewing machine comprising a head, feed dogs, a normally vertically reciprocating needle,

a folder to fold a binding longitudinally thereof with at least one of the edges turned inwardly to form a top edge fold having at least top and bottom plies, a bracket on said head, a spring suspended from said bracket, a presser foot carried by said spring and under which the folded binding is passed for feeding by the feed dogs, a nipper shoe carried by said presser foot and about which the folded binding is bent prior to passing beneath the presser foot, means actuated from the pulley end of the machine to dispose said spring so that the nipper shoe will position the bend of the edge fold for a predetermined time in the path of travel of the needle whereby the needle will enter and emerge from the under surface of the bottom ply of said edge fold without passing through said top ply of said top edge fold and without passing through the opposite edge portion of the binding and move said spring in a direction to retract said nipper shoe for a predetermined time so that the nipper shoe will position the folded binding out of the path of travel of the needle whereby the needle will not pass through any part of the folded binding, and means cooperating with the needle at predetermined times to form a cross-stitch passing through the opposite edge portion of the binding.

11. A sewing machine comprising a head, feed dogs, a normally vertically reciprocating needle, a folder to fold a binding longitudinally thereof with at least one of the edges turned inwardly to form a top edge fold having at least top and bottom plies, a bracket on said head, a spring suspended from said bracket, a presser foot carried by said spring and under which the folded binding is passed for feeding by the feed dogs, a nipper shoe carried by said presser foot and about which the folded binding is bent prior to passing beneath the presser foot, means actuated from the pulley end of the machine to dispose said spring so that the nipper shoe will position the bend of the edge fold for a predetermined time in the path of travel of the needle whereby the needle will enter and emerge from the under urface of the bottom ply of said edge fold Without passing through said top ply of said top edge fold and without passing through the opposite edge portion of the binding and move said spring in a direction to retract said nipper shoe for a predetermined time so that the nipper shoe will position the folded binding out of the path of travel of the needle whereby the needle will not pass through any part of the folded binding, the means cooperating with said spring comprising a rod having one end thereof secured to said spring, a rock lever on the other end of said rod, :3. rock shaft carrying said rock lever, a driven shaft operatively connected at one end thereof to the main drive shaft of the machine, and eccentric means connecting the other end of said shaft to said rock shaft, and means cooperating with the needle at predetermined times to form a crossstitch passing through the opposite edge portion of the binding.

12. A sewing machine comprising a head, feed dogs, a normally vertically reciprocating needle, a folder to fold a binding longitudinally thereof with atleast one of the edges turned inwardly to form a top edge fold having at least top and bottom plies, a bracket on said head, a spring sus- 17 pended from said bracket, a presser foot carried by said spring and under which the folded binding is passed for feeding by the feed dogs, a nipper shoe carried by said presser foot and about Which the folded binding is bent prior to passing beneath the presser foot, means actuated from the pulley end of the machine to dispose said spring so that the nipper shoe will position the bend of the edge fold for a predetermined time in the path of travel of the needle whereby the needle will enter and emerge from the under surface of the bottom ply of said edge fold without passing through said top ply of said top edge fold and without passing through the opposite edge portion of the binding and move said spring in a direction to retract said nipper shoe for a predetermined time so that the nipper shoe will position the folded binding out of the path of travel of the needle whereby the needle will not pass through any part of the folded binding, the means cooperating with said spring comprising a rod having one end thereof secured to said spring, a rock lever on the other end of said rod, a, rock shaft carrying said rock lever, a driven shaft oneratively connected at one end thereof to the main drive shaft of the machine, and eccentric means connecting the other end of said shaft to said rock shaft, and means cooperating with the needle at predetermined times to form a cross- 18 stitch passing through the opposite edge portion of the binding, said rock shaft and driven shaft being carried by said bracket.

13. For a sewing machine having a head, a reciprocating needle bar in one end, a, drive pulley at the other end operatively connected to a drive shaft actuating said bar, and feed dogs, an attachment comprising a bracket adapted to be secured to the overhanging arm of said head, a spring suspended from said bracket, a presser foot carried by said spring and adapted to be p0- sitioned over the feeddogs, a nipper shoe on said presser foot, a rock shaft, a driven shaft having an eccentric on one end thereof, means connecting said eccentric to said rock shaft, means to drive said driven shaft from'said drive shaft, a lever secured on said rock shaft, and means connecting said lever to said spring.

CHARLES SEAMAN.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record ,in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS 

